Hours of Operation: Monday - Friday, 8:30 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. | Saturday, 9:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m. • Our website will be getting daily updates. Please be sure to check back often!!


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Hours of Operation:
Monday - Friday, 8:30 a.m. - 5:30 p.m.
Saturday, 9:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What are your hours?
Hours of Operation
Monday - Friday, 8:30 a.m. - 5:30 p.m.
Saturday, 9:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.
We are closed on Sundays

Q: You guys were highly recommended by my friend. Will you work on my...?
We often get asked by our customers to work on other makes and models of vehicles. As much as we would love to help, we are dedicated vintage VW experts only. Our parts department and service shop cater exclusively to older Volkswagens. We know you'll understand our passion for the classics, and we wish you all the best in your search for an alternative service shop for your vehicle.

Q: How much can I get for my VW if I sell it?

A: This is a question that even as VW experts, we aren't able to answer precisely. In fact, no one can. There are simply too many variables regarding the sales price of a classic car.  Condition is the main one. Location, ability or willingness to assist with shipping, quality of photos and ad text, and how motivated the seller may be are all big factors. Additionally, a VW with a known history of restoration or repairs may be more valuable.  Obviously, a distressed seller needing to generate quick cash is likely more motivated to sell cheaply.  Our advice is simple. Clean, clean, clean your car. Inside and out. Take good pictures in a well lighted, pleasing environment, not in a messy garage full of clutter and old bicycles.  Repair any known issues. Write a good ad. Spend more than a few minutes and put some effort into it.  Then have someone else proof read it. Make sure there are no simple typos, or errors in your description. And don't over represent your vehicle's condition. Be an honest seller.  Then pick a price that you are happy with. Ultimately, only you are able to determine that number. Maybe it's by checking comparable ads online, or maybe it's just the first price that pops in your head. Leave some wiggle room for a prospective buyer to negotiate with you a bit and you are on your way.

Q: Can you help me with an electrical problem over the phone or email?
A: Due to the nature of electrical issues and the required level of diagnosis, we do not offer electrical repair advice.

Q: What is a Super Beetle?
A: Many VW owners may not know the difference so we will try to help clarify. Super Beetles and standard Beetles were concurrently produced from 1971-1977.  All convertibles made from 1971 to 1979 were Super Beetles. Only convertibles were made in 1978 and 1979, so therefore were all Super Beetles. There are many differences between supers and standards.  But for simplicity and helping you with identification, we will focus on the front suspension. A Super Beetle has front strut suspension and a standard does not.  If you look at your front shocks and see a traditional type of shock absorber, your car is not a super.  If you see a large coil spring at each front wheel yours is a super.  There are many other distinct differences, and this is not a total breakdown, but merely to assist you in distinguishing between the two types.
*Please note, this information does not apply to Beetles made for Mexican and South American markets. Additionally, the designation between super beetle and standard beetle does not refer to the type of transmission.

Q:Where is my VIN?
A: For all years of Beetles, Super Beetles, Karmann Ghias, and VW Things, the vehicle identification number is stamped on the chassis tunnel under the rear seat bottom. Lift the rear seat base up, and the number is on the top most side of the tunnel, in plain view.

Q: What is a Freeway Flyer?

A: That is merely a term that has become industry accepted to describe a 4-speed VW™ transaxle that has been modified to allow faster freeway speeds at lower engine rpm. It can be a combination of different fourth gears or differentials and pinion gears. We build them to match your horsepower level and driving needs. But please realize, with only four speeds, it may mean a compromise on your acceleration or the rpm drop between third and fourth may increase. Of course, all of this can be overcome by properly matching the engine's horsepower output to your vehicle's weight and how you drive.

Q: What is a 5-speed and how much does it cost?
A: The 5-speed is custom configured and engineered out of specially modified 4-speed components with aftermarket parts to allow a fifth gear for freeway cruising. We normally do these with closer-ratio first through fourth gears and a stock ratio or close-to-stock fourth gear as the new fifth gear. They are the best of both worlds for acceleration and good freeway speeds. They are completely custom-designed and built to your needs. Pricing depends on component selection, gear choices, modifications, and other factors. You can expect to pay $3500.00 to $4500.00. Due to the custom nature of the modifications and parts required, we require advance payment. These orders are not refundable and cannot be canceled.

Q: How long does a transaxle rebuild take once I place my order?
A: A transaxle rebuild takes us about five days to complete after we receive it. If you want a performance unit, it may take longer depending on your options.

Q: What performance options are available?
A: We can do anything. We are always happy to help you choose the gear ratios and parts to meet your needs. Close-ratio gears, TIG welding, case gussets, 4-spider differentials, Quaife™ differentials, and more are readily available.

Q: What if I don't know what gears are in my existing transaxle, but I know I don't like them?
A: Send us your transaxle. We will disassemble it, assess the gear ratios and condition, and then call you with suggestions and pricing.

Q: Who do you use for shipping transaxles?
A: We usually ship via FedEx™. They are fast and generally do not damage the transaxle during transit.

Q: How do I ship my core to you?
A: When you send us your transaxle for rebuild or core exchange, please do the following: 

  1. Be sure the core you ship matches the unit you order from us. (That is, don't order a transaxle for a 1974 Super Beetle and send in a core from a 1966 Beetle. If you are unsure what you are working with, give us a call. We can usually solve that question over the phone quite easily.)
  2. Drain the oil.
  3. Wrap your transaxle up very well and use padding. (They are heavy, and cardboard boxes are still just cardboard. Insure it if you want to be reimbursed by the shipper for any loss or damage. We have nothing to do with the transport of your transaxle to us and will not be responsible if a shipper loses it or drops it and damages it.)

Q: What makes a good core?
A: Good cores are units that get removed from cars due to mechanical problems and need to be replaced or those that are out for a thorough restoration. Cores that have been out in the weather, or have been run without oil so long they are burned up inside do not make good re-buildable exchanges. Also, older 6-volt transaxles are not suited for core exchange if they have been "ground out" to accommodate a 12-volt flywheel and are poorly cut through the starter bushing area or into the motor mounting studs. Remember, to save core charges, send a like-kind transaxle suitable for rebuild. We also buy transaxle cores outright in all quantities and would be happy to hear from you.

Q: What should I do now?
A: Call (844) 511-0852 and we'll help you pick the best transaxle to match your needs.

Engine FAQ

What is a long block?
As provided by us, a long block is a complete engine, including case, bottom end components, cylinder heads, valvetrain and valve covers, and flywheel. It is ready to have the external components installed and run.

What is a turnkey engine?
It is an engine that includes a long block and all external items such as cooling tins, intake system, electrical charging components, and ignition system. Some turnkeys can include exhaust, heater systems, and clutches.

What is a stroker engine?
In the air cooled VW world, we typically use that to identify any engine with a crankshaft throw that is longer than 69 mm.
Common aftermarket crankshafts are 78 mm, 82 mm, 84 mm and 86 mm. There are certainly others, including oddballs like 72 and 76 mm which we don't prefer to use.

I see options available on pistons. What does piston size mean?
The diameter of the piston. Common diameters are 85.5, 87, 90.5, 92, and 94 mm. There are others, both smaller and larger. This is simply a general FAQ section however.

I just bought a car and the seller said it has a 1776. How can I tell if it does?
Unfortunately, there is no easy or accurate way to determine an engine's displacement from the outside. We can only identify what year the external engine case (block) was originally.
Even a large bore and stroke engine doesn't look very different externally than a 1600 cc.

Is a larger engine reliable?
Yes. Engine displacement does not determine reliability. That is more determined by the quality of components, precision of assembly, attention to details, and maintenance.

What is the best engine?
This question is difficult to answer. There are simply too many variables including application, budget, and time constraints, and desired performance level.

Why are there certain engine sizes you don't build?
We prefer matching engine combinations that work well together and are proven performers. Our years of testing has helped us identify options that work!

How much does a custom engine cost?
Engines are like houses. You can spend as much as you want. But do know that a $1000 engine is not the same as a $7000 engine.

What is the key to performance? There is no secret. It's simply all about the right combination. That means every component inside and outside of the engine must work optimally with each other component. And ideally, with the transaxle gearing, tire size, suspension, and vehicle weight.

I can't decide. What should I do now?
Narrow down your budget, and your goals, and call us and we can help. (844) 511-0852


Q: What is a flowbench?
A: A flowbench is a machine that is able to accurately measure air flow through an object; specifically for our purposes, a cylinder head, intake or exhaust component.

Q: What is a SuperFlow™ SF-600 Flowbench?
A: THE BUG STOP, INC. is one of the few VW shops equipped with a flow bench. We are the proud owners of a SuperFlow professional flowbench equipped with a FlowCom™ computer.

Q: Why does that matter? 
A: Because we can make more power! We are able to accurately measure the airflow resistance of an object, and then after altering the mechanical size or shape of the item, we can re-measure and assess the changes. For example, we can compare the flow through a port with a single angle valve job to a multi-angle valve job. We can determine if a larger valve installed into an otherwise stock head affects flow, or how the combustion chamber shape can help or hinder flow. Some changes are easily implemented and offer great returns in terms of airflow and potential power. Others require more effort and therefore cost more with diminishing returns. Some changes will actually reduce airflow and velocity, thereby reducing your performance. If you are interested in porting your own heads, we offer consultation services. 

If you simply wish to have the head flow tested to verify your given flow numbers, we can test yours. Although we do not mass-produce ported heads, we do considerable research and development work for others. We can test your heads starting at $100, and we offer quick turnaround times. We can also flow test other items you may wish to modify and will gladly quote you a price based on what you need. Feel free to call us at (844) 511-0852 if you would like to discuss any specifics.

Chamber Design, Testing Billet Heads,Exhaust Port

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